By Thomas von Nordheim
The exchange secrets and techniques of couture tailoring are revealed—an helpful consultant for pros and enthusiasts
Traditional tailoring has now not replaced for lots of centuries, besides the fact that, the thoughts at the moment are identified simply through a number of working towards within the most sensible couture ateliers and bespoke tailor's workrooms. not anything feels relatively so sumptuous as customized outfits, however the tailoring abilities they require are frequently considered shrouded in secret, and the garments accordingly purely available to the wealthy and recognized. This useful ebook brings classic couture tailoring within everyone's achieve. With step by step images assistance all through, it indicates how a lady's jacket is made and thereby introduces a variety of primary tailoring ideas. those can be utilized for clothes for both gender, in addition as other stitching projects. The ebook discusses molding fabric to form with the iron, utilizing free interfacings, hole shoulder development, pad sewing canvas, interlining and weighting hems, making adapted and certain buttonholes, and extra forgotten techniques.
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Additional info for Vintage Couture Tailoring
As it is done diagonally, it is quite an elastic stitch. It can also be used to baste cloth in place temporarily, for example the revers facing or top collar. Padding stitch will form the characteristic herringbone pattern. Cross stitch. Cross or herringbone stitch The cross stitch holds a raw edge securely against a flat surface, for example when stitching the bust dart in the canvas or to hold a seam allowance or pocket bag down. It can also be used as a strong hem stitch. Whip stitch. Whip stitch The whip stitch overcasts a raw edge to keep it from fraying, such as the tailored buttonhole or a seam allowance.
Chain stitch This is the same as the embroidery chain stitch, except in tailoring the stitches are pulled tight. Each stitch locks fullness, as opposed to gathering where you are able to move the fullness about. The chain stitch is done with double thread. Feather stitch. Feather or baseball stitch This stitch butts up two folded edges temporarily such as on the jetted pocket. It keeps the two edges from overlapping and shifting. It used to be used for joining canvas panels that had been cut to shape.
19/ Lining: separately made-up material to cover the insides of the jacket. Terminology Canvas: refers to the interfacing construction in the jacket front, even if other material has been employed. Interfacing: material to stiffen and give support to the jacket. This can be the canvas or a mounting material. Staying: keeping fabric from stretching where it is off grain, with stay tape, bridles or straight cut fabric. Easing: making fabric shorter in sections by shrinking or gathering it. Padding: stitching two or more materials together with pad stitches; also supporting shape by stuffing garment parts (such as shoulders or sleeve heads) or as in balancing padding.