By JoAnne Olian
Superb illustrations from an extraordinary resource offer actual perspectives of evolving Victorian models — from excessive necklines, elongated bodices, and geared up bonnets to extravagant bustles. The meticulously reproduced plates comprise depictions of attire, robes, and coats in addition to add-ons. A needs to for gown designers, cultural historians, and style lovers. creation. Captions.
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Additional resources for 80 Godey's Full-Color Fashion Plates. 1838-1880
Color as well as cut was directly influenced by Paris, hence such colors as “Bismarck,” a kind of brown, “magenta,” and “Metternich green” (after the fashionable wife of the Austrian ambassador to the French court). In 1869, according to Godey’s, “Costumes cannot be too gay or too picturesque; many of the street costumes are exact copies from some of the old painters” (May 1869). Myriad borrowings can be detected in the fashion vocabulary of those years, from 16th-century slashing and puffing, 17th-century off-the-shoulder bertha décolletages, and Marie Antoinette polonaises.
Fig. c. Evening dress of white satin, with blonde, and ornaments in gold. Headdress of the same. Fig. d. Evening dress of white crepe. The flowers which ornament it are arranged en tablier, or apron fashion; spray of the same flowers to the left of the coiffure. Fig. e. Lavender silk dress; the skirt has three flounces. Short opera cloak in rose and white tissue. Pearl comb and loops of pearls in hair. PLATE 25. OCTOBER 1858. Fig. a. Dressing gown of fawn silk or cashmere. Pale blue silk quilting around skirt, on the wide sleeves, and en tablier to a similar band at the neck.
The bertha crosses in front, and ties in back with long ends. Fig. c. Promenade dress and mantle of brown alpaca, trimmed with black velvet and ball fringe. The jacket is Señorita shape, quite short in back. The dress is looped over a skirt of white lustre, trimmed with scarlet braid and fluted ruffles. Brown straw hat. Fig. d. Morning costume for a watering-place. A gored dress of white pique, trimmed with a fluted ruffle. The overdress is Violine cambric, trimmed with a fluted ruffle and a gay border.